Monday, November 24, 2014

Talking turkey: Local chef gives hints to make Turkey Day perfect by Daniel Porubiansky
November 19, 2014


I always tell myself in August that it will be Christmas before you know it. Kids go back to school, Labor Day comes, Halloween comes, Veterans Day comes and boom, Thanksgiving is here. So Thanksgiving is next week and you are worried about not being ready. I have a few tips to help make your life easier, get you prepared for Turkey Day, and make you look like a rock star in the kitchen. As always, good cooking. 

Tip 1: Plan your menu, know what you are going to serve, and by all means do not wait until the last minute to gather your ingredients. You want to make sure you have enough turkey, butter, cream, vegetables, etc., before they are all gone from store shelves. 

Tip 2: When purchasing your turkey do not be afraid to buy a frozen one. Most turkeys on the market are frozen or have been frozen, even if only for a week or two. As long as you prepare your turkey correctly, you have nothing to worry about. If using a frozen turkey, let it thaw in the refrigerator for at least three days before brining. 

Tip 3: I strongly suggest you brine your turkey for 24 hours. This will help your turkey stay moist, have better flavor, and also get better color while cooking (see brine recipe below). Once you have eaten a brined turkey, you will never go back. I rub my brined turkey with butter and herbs and I also stuff the butter and herb mixture under the skin. 

Tip 4: Do Not Overcook Your Turkey. Please, do not wait for the pop up button to come out. By the time this happens, your turkey is already “dead.” I like to cook my turkey to between 150 to 155 degrees in the breast. Remove the turkey from the oven at 155 degrees, the breast should carry over to 160. Remove the legs, which will still be a little on the rare side, and put them back in the oven for an additional 20 to 30 minutes while the carcass and breast are resting. 

Tip 5: Canned cranberry; you either love it or you hate it. Why not try to make it fresh yourself? It is very simple and easy to do, and as my friend Amy says, “nutritious and delicious” (see recipe below).  

Tip 6: Butter — make sure you use enough of it! After all, butter “makes everything taste better.” The corn, the beans, the stuffing, the mashed potatoes, the sweet potatoes, and who can forget the rolls? They all need lots and lots of butter “love!” 

Turkey and Brine Ingredients: 

2 gallons of water 1 pound butter 2 cups salt 1 bunch fresh rosemary 1 cup brown sugar 1 bunch fresh sage 3 bay leaves 1 bulb garlic 1 Tbsp. black peppercorns 2 onions 1 Tbsp. mustard seeds 4 carrots 1 Tbsp. coriander seeds 1 bunch celery 1 Tbsp. fennel seeds   

DIRECTIONS: Brine 

Combine all the ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool. Refrigerate until ready to use. Chef Tip: Remove innards from the turkey (save for making gravy), rinse your turkey well, especially in the cavity, and place in brine and refrigerate for 24 hours. The brine itself can be made up to one week in advance. 

DIRECTIONS: Turkey 

Remove the turkey from the brine and rinse again. Pat dry with paper towels. Soften one pound of butter and mix with ¼ cup of freshly chopped rosemary. Generously rub your bird. Chef tip: If your turkey is not dry, the butter will not stick. Gently separate the skin from the breast and stuff the butter/herb mixture under the skin. All leftover butter put into the cavity. Also in the cavity, one bulb garlic (cut in half), all the sage, and the remaining rosemary (with stem). Peel and cut onions and carrots into one inch cubes. Wash the celery, removing the leaves, and cut into one inch cubes. These vegetables, also known as mirepoix, will be the bed for your turkey in the roasting pan. They make a fabulous side dish and keep your turkey from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Chef Tip: This step can be done the day before, so that on Thanksgiving morning all you have to do heat your oven and put the bird in. Preheat your oven to 425 degrees and place your turkey in the oven for 30 minutes and do not touch. After 30 minutes, turn the oven down to 325 degrees and gently baste your turkey. Starting the turkey at a higher temperature gives the bird color and helps the herbs stay in place during later basting. Baste every 20 minutes until your turkey is finished. 

Cranberry Relish

1 bag fresh cranberries (normally comes in a 12 oz. bag) 2 cups red port wine ½ cup sugar Zest and juice of one orange 1 cinnamon stick 

DIRECTIONS:

In a medium sized pot, over medium heat, combine port wine, sugar, orange zest and juice, and cinnamon and bring to a boil. Reduce by half, add cranberries, and simmer until thick. Cranberries should have “popped.” The mixture should be a thick ragout. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.  
Chef Tip: This can also be made a day or two in advance. 

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Pumpkins: They’re not just for carving
by Daniel Porubiansky
November 05, 2014 11:03 PM | 1401 views |  
Pumpkin soup with Port Wine Cranberries, Toasted Pumpkin Seeds and Pumpkin Seed Oil by Daniel Porubiansky, chef partner of Century House Tavern.
Pumpkin soup with Port Wine Cranberries, Toasted Pumpkin Seeds and Pumpkin Seed Oil by Daniel Porubiansky, chef partner of Century House Tavern.
Pumpkins are not just for carving on Halloween nor are they just for making pies on Thanksgiving. They’re also delicious to eat in many other ways.

A couple of my favorites I will share with you, one is pumpkin soup and another is crème brulée.

Try making a fresh pumpkin soup with something else that happens to be in season right now — fresh cranberries. The sweet and sour cranberries really work well with the melon cucumber flavors of a pumpkin.

I know you’re thinking I’m crazy right now, but pumpkins, squash, gourds, cucumbers and melons are all in the same family. Next time you have the chance to cut open different types of squash or pumpkins, smell the inside and you’ll know what I’m talking about.

Chef tip: If you want to get fancy, you can even serve the soup from inside a cored out pumpkin for effect.

Another favorite of mine, that has been a big hit this fall at Century House Tavern, is the mini pumpkin crème brulée. The crème brulée is actually baked inside a pre-baked mini pumpkin. The presentation is stunning and the dessert tastes even better than it looks. Here are the recipes for you to try at home and as always, good cooking.

Pumpkin Soup (with Port Wine Cranberries, Toasted Pumpkin Seeds and Pumpkin Seed Oil)

(Serves 8)

½ pound unsalted butter

2 pie pumpkins

1 yellow onion

2 quarts water

½ quart heavy cream

2 tbsp. pumpkin seed oil

Salt & pepper

1 bag fresh cranberries (normally comes in a 12 oz. bag)

2 cups port wine

½ cup sugar

Zest and juice of one orange

1 cinnamon stick

4 ounces pumpkin seeds

1 tbsp. olive oil

Salt

DIRECTIONS:
Soup:

Peel and seed pumpkin. Dice into 1 inch cubes. Cut onion into ½ inch dice. In a large pot, sauté onion with butter over medium-high heat. Stir frequently for 3 minutes. Add diced pumpkin and stir for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer until pumpkin is tender (approximately 5 -10 minutes). Add cream and return to a boil. Remove from heat and carefully blend in a blender (Chef tip: liquid is hot and builds pressure in the blender. Slowly and carefully turn on and off the blender until the contents start to emulsify.) Strain through a fine screen China Cap. Adjust seasoning and set aside. Note: This soup can be made two days in advance and will store nicely in the refrigerator.

Cranberries:

In a medium sized pot, over medium heat, combine port wine, sugar, orange zest and juice, and cinnamon and bring to a boil. Reduce by half, add cranberries, and simmer until thick. Cranberries should have ‘popped’. The mixture should be a thick ragout. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Seeds:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

In a small bowl combine pumpkin seeds with oil and season with salt. Place on a cookie sheet and bake in pre-heated oven for about 8-10 minutes, stirring every 2 minutes. When seeds are crispy, remove from heat and place on another cookie sheet lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil. Set aside.

Pumpkin Crème Brulée

(Serves 8)

8 mini pumpkins

½ quart of cream

½ quart of milk

8 oz. granulated sugar

1 vanilla bean (scraped)

12 egg yolks

4 tbsp. raw sugar (also known as turbinado sugar)

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Carefully cut the top off the pumpkins. Cut about ¼ inch of meat off the top of the pumpkins. With a spoon, scrap and clean out the inside of the pumpkins. Put the top back on the pumpkins and bake them in the oven for approximately 50 minutes. Remove from heat, take the tops off and set aside.

While the pumpkins are in the oven we can make the crème brulée base. Bring milk, cream, sugar and vanilla to a boil in a medium sauce pan. In a separate bowl with the yolks, slowly temper the hot mixture into the yolks, whisking briskly until all liquid is combined. Strain through a fine screen china cap and set aside.

Chef Tip: The brulée base can be made up to three days in advance and stored in your refrigerator.

Arrange pumpkins in a casserole dish and fill pumpkins with brulée mixture. Add a ½ inch of water to the bottom of the casserole dish, place filled pumpkins in the same 350 degree oven for approximately 50 minutes uncovered (do not re-cook the tops, save for presentation later). Cooking time varies depending on the size of the pumpkins and your oven, brulée may require an additional 10-15 minutes of baking. When the custard is set, remove from oven and allow to cool. After one hour, refrigerate until ready to serve.

Plate up:

Remove finished pumpkins from the refrigerator, sprinkle ½ tbsp. of raw sugar evenly over each brulée. With a propane torch, brulée sugar until bubbly and golden brown. (Chef’s tip: Do not over caramelize the sugar as it will become bitter.) Sprinkle with toasted pumpkin seeds (see pumpkin soup recipe for seed procedure) and serve with the cooked top alongside the pumpkin.